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SO MUCH WAWA


When taking place the arrival of the souls, it is very ancestral tradition in the one he/she is Peruvian and also in Huancavelica to carry out ceremonies with the acquaintance "so much wawa" or "bread drinks" as very special offering that offers in an altar, to people that left to the but there.

Saturnine Guerra Quispe, baker ayacuchano "The gentleman of the wawas." It is champion of diverse competitions of t'anta wawas. It is about the traditional cake of All Santos in Ayacucho.

T'anta wawa, so much wawa or wawa is simply the mountain cake for antonomasia, traditional in the cities of Puno, Cusco, Huancavelica and Ayacucho. Their name comes from t'anta (bread) and wawa (boy), children of bread, in Quechua.

Mainly in the "Corner of the deads" there is the (Ayacucho) habit of to give and to eat t'anta wawas November 1, day of All Santos. It is the only date of the year in which you/they are big quantities of wawas, horses, braids and other traditional forms of this bread. If for these days you go to the agencies interprovinciales that come from the city of the 33 churches, it will wrap it a scent dulzón to bizcochuelo that arrives in boxes. The ayacuchanos residents and their associations in Lima and abroad they have followed the habit and in advance they make their orders of t'anta wawas to give to their friends and family. One of those that has more orders are Saturnine Guerra Quispe, a baker 73 year-old ayacuchano that has been recognized in several competitions of t'anta wawas. Their soft cakes have also made delights in the festivals that it has participated: in Italy, Germany, United States, Brazil and Argentina.

Don Saturnine who also gives to the guitar ayacuchana in their free whiles, he/she says that the secret is the combination of the flours. "Non use anything of chemists for the wawas, single flour of beans, of wheat and of alverja, yeast, chancho shortening and egg." For the "eyes" and decorations of the wawa or the horse is used ajonjolí, peanut and raisins. And the process now makes it with the machines and it can be clever in twenty minutes, it counts. Alone one of their children, Felipe, it is interested in following this tradition and it continues the father's teachings in the bakery of Mariátegui 313, in route to the cemetery, in Ayacucho.

The wawas can overcome the mean size meter, in accordance with the order that he/she makes the client. The manager panificadora Gladys Heads Pine grove is huantina and of girl he/she also began to make wawas.

He/she explains that the tradition in Huanta is that the wawas is soaked lightly in a wine I tint port wine to appreciate its flavor well. Although today more he/she wastes away with a good cup of milk with chocolate. Traditionally, one gives t'anta wawas to their midwives and t'anta horses to their godfathers or their applicants. The children and young they also give wawas, with what you/they establish this way future camaraderie knots, following the tradition. In Huanta, contrary to Ayacucho, the alverjas flours and beans are not used, single wheat flour combined with flour of the north, also for a question of costs. But this mixture allows that the mass doesn't need of the reed stick that puts on in the masses ayacuchanas by way of spine so that the so much wawa is not dismantled. One can still see some traditional ovens that you/they cook the t'anta wawas to firewood. But to firewood or in industrial oven, like they say, the secret is in the hands, in the love that puts on for this bizcochuelo that is symbol of the friendship in Ayacucho.

Written for: José Vadillo Vila, jvadillo@editoraperu.com.pe



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